3dprinters:d7:start

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3dprinters:d7:start [2021/11/01 08:31] – created John Harrison3dprinters:d7:start [2024/12/03 18:08] (current) John Harrison
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 ===== Accessories to print ===== ===== Accessories to print =====
   * [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3552396|Drip Stand]] (FDM print)   * [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3552396|Drip Stand]] (FDM print)
 +  * [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4172114|VAT lid]]
 +
 +===== Chitubox =====
 +Chitubox is a much more sophisticated slicer than Creation Workshop. It may be useful to build supports in Chitubox instead of Creation Workshop. You could also do rotations, check for islands, etc. One possible model for workflow to use Chitubox:
 +  * build supports, slice, etc with Chitubox
 +  * save as STL
 +  * open in Creation Workshop
 + 
 +===== Misc =====
 +  * [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4545567/files|possible config file for Creation Workshop]]
 +  * [[https://theoddartisan.com/3d-printing/wanhao-duplicator-7-d7-v1-5-setup-tutorial/|nice beginning resource]]
 +===== Things to check =====
 +  * is all-thread straight?
 +  * is the truck that goes up and down true and with no wobble?
 +
 +===== "Experience" =====
 +  * solid starter numbers:
 +    * 2 "bottom layers" (maybe can use less? Changed from 4 to 2 and it seems to avoid a ledge at the bottom of the print"
 +    * 120000 ms for bottom later (10000 is probably fine)
 +    * other layers 10000 ms although for sides higher seems better and doesn't seem to affect the quality of the print. 18000 is nice insurance
 +    * .05mm layer spacing seems like a good compromise between speed and quality. .1 comes out OK but you can see the lines easier. .025 and .0125 do work but at that point the XY makes it not look much better since you are only improving Z
 +  * the mask doesn't seem to hurt anything. Unclear how effective it is
 +  * warpage seems due to fep that is damaged or not tight in areas
 +  * containers (label all of them):
 +    * one to filter fep and put back in the vat
 +    * one to put base in
 +    * one to clean things with (other than the print)
 +    * one to clean the print with
 +  * paper towel holder so you can grab paper towels with one hand would be helpful
 +  * smaller microfibers would be handy. Cutting them creates a lot of lint or some sort but they are too large for efficient use
 +  * it's important to get all the IPA off after cleaning or it dissolves the resin and turns it white.
 +  * pieces seem to need only about a minute in the ultrasonic cleaner
 +  * a plastic scraper is critical and works well on fep, much better than just gloves
 +  * it would be helpful to have a place to hang the hood of the printer
 +
 +===== Tips from others =====
 +  * wam bam slap mats for easy cleanup under everything
 +  * use flexible build plate
 +  * angle the model instead of building on flat plate
 +  * if a hollow part make sure you don’t create suction against the fep
 +  * uv tools check for issues (open source)
 +  * use ultrasonic cleaner at least 10 min
 +  * you can sand the build surface of the platform
 +  * [[https://helpcenter.phrozen3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/6324821843993-How-to-Dial-in-Resin-for-Optimal-Results|dial in exposure time]]
 +  * a heater in the enclosure is a good idea. One particular model measures 2.26x1.26x4.25
 +
 +==== supports ====
 +  * change raft area ratio to 150%
 +  * raise object by 5mm
 +  * clean then remove supports then clean again then cure
 +  * can fill ultrasonic with water then put in a plastic cup to save IPA
 +  * when removing supports soak first in hot water 130 to 150*F
 +
 +===== Next Steps =====
 +  * how to get good results with bed of nails
 +    * create bed of nails in chitbox then import?
 +  * limitations when not using support material
  • 3dprinters/d7/start.1635773470.txt.gz
  • Last modified: 2021/11/01 08:31
  • by John Harrison